Brereton Lake, Manitoba
June 11, 1950
Dear Family,
We have a little
time again today, so I thought I would drop a line to let you know how we are
getting along. We are finally out of Ontario. It is hard to realize how large a province it
is. We logged over 1500 miles before
reaching the Manitoba
boundary. Our trip through Ontario is the equivalent of a trip to the Dakotas through the States.
As I indicated in
the post card of the other day, the roads and country are of the most rugged
you can ask for. The stretch of the
trans-Canada high way between Hearst and Geraldton has been open only four
years and there has been little to attract anyone but the hardiest of
settlers. Houses are few and far between
and gasoline stations fewer and farther. According to Carol's records we passed
through a 132 mile stretch without a single sign of habitation. What homes there are are reminiscent of our
own pioneer days. Rough hewn logs are almost
the only building material. Few places
up in northwestern Ontario
have electricity, and fewer still running water and sewers. The
most impressive feature is the stark poverty of the few inhabitants. Children are in taters and ribbons. The homes
themselves bespeak of little more a place where human life can be carried on. French is quite prevalent throughout Ontario. Even at Hearst, the postmaster spoke almost
no English. The clothing of the people
is, of course, plain. The outstanding
characteristics are the billed caps worn by the French and the knee high rubber
boots worn by nearly everyone. The boots
are a result of necessity. Once off the highway, the land is almost entirely
muskeg. Muskeg is a combination of water, sandy soil, and the accumulation of
thousands of years' forest growth in the form of rotted wood, leaves and just
plain black goo. In places it is quite
firm and will support the weight of a man nicely; in others, we were told a ten
ton truck could sink from sight in a few minutes.
The roads present
a variety of conditions. As far as North Bay, pavement of
one sort or another prevails. Between North
Bay and Cochrane, One occasionally gets gravel, but
the road crews are out and improvements are on the way. West of Cochrane, the roads are exclusively
gravel or earth. Some stretches of gravel road were very smooth and well
graded. Almost invariably, we make better time on a smooth gravel road than a
paved one which after a few years up here is buckled to a roller coaster
affair. West of Hearst, the road is wide
smooth gravel. Beyond Geraldton we ran into
the worst roads so far. The road is a
very old gravel that has become wash-boarded.
In addition, the only gravel that is apparently available for repairs
and resurfacing consists chiefly of stones about the size of hen's eggs. That combination will jar the daylights out
of any car. Once you hit the Lake of the Woods region, roads are paved again. Thus far in Manitoba we have had pavement.
We have been very fortunate with
campsites. Except for one night, we have
camped on public grounds maintained by the Ontario highway department. Water and fire wood have been abundant,
especially the latter. In fact, wood is
the natural resource of this section of the province. The big timber is pretty nearly gone or in
preserves. But, the paper companies are
stripping the land for pulp wood trees. This
is an especially destructive industry. A
tree has to be at least six inches in diameter to saw up into boards, but a
three inch sapling is fine for pulp. All
that is left when the paper companies are finished is shrubbery. Fortunately, Canada is taking remedial action,
but much damage has already been done. Soaking in water is part of the
preparation of wood for paper. Twice we have camped on lakes where thousands of
acres of the water surface was covered by floating 1ogs. Speaking of water, we
have camped on a lake every night except two, and one of those nights we were
on a wide river.
As mentioned previously, rain has been our principal
complaint. We did not have a single day
without a wetting 1 last week. Today, our
first day in Manitoba, one of the
"prairie: provinces it is hot and sunny and we almost wish for
the cool damp of Ontario.
Last night was our first bad mosquito experience. Our
repellant is quite effective, but they buzz quite close to
one's face, ears, and neck before the odor drives them off
again. Our mosquito proof tent is a
Godsend. An interest-
feature here. There is a small grommet
hole at each peak about a sixteenth of an inch in diameter. Unless we plug them with a bit of something,
we will have 'skeetoes the next morning.
We had no mail from you at Hearst or Dryden. We are anxious to hear how you are getting
settled in your new house. Also if you
connected the refrigerator.
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